SF Eats :: Beretta
In many ways, Beretta is a picture postcard of everything that’s marvy about the Mission: folk of all stripes and ages coming together in a chummy, clubby atmosphere for companionship and fabulous food. Even on a holiday Monday, the joint was jammed and jammin’; that something super is going on here is an undeniable fact.
For some, like the trio of femmes fashionistas at the neighboring table enjoying a liquid dinner, it’s the wondrous wine bar; for others, the contemporary Italian comfort food. For me-yep, you got it-it’s both.
As in all the best spots, seasonal and organic ingredients are on offer whenever possible- a trend in evidence among the antipasti, most priced at a super-fair $6. Eggplant Caponatina with burrata (at an additional $3 charge) is dressed simply in olive oil to let the ingredients shine, and succeeds magnificently. Heartier and heavenly were the Chicken Liver Crostini alla Toscana , copious servings of chicken liver cooked just so with garlic, olive oil, and lemon. (We were delighted our dining companion didn’t dig liver-more for us of this classic Italian treat.)
Many fish antipasti are also gorgeously priced at just $7. (As we say in Brooklyn: "Don’t ask no questions.")
The exception is the Frito Misto ($13), a bounteous catch featuring calamari, shrimp, green beans, and fennel. Lightly battered and served with lemon and a tangy, homemade marinara sauce, this one’s a don’t-miss that we saw at many more tables than not.
Pizzas are also in evidence on every other table, and with good reason. Chef Ruggero Gadaldi works with a Woodstone gas, rather than more traditional wood-burning oven; the results are every bit as good (and this system is far better for the environment- big up here). Veggie pizzas abound, but a real man (my editor excluded!) always chooses Spicy Italian Sausage, with Panna and Green Onions ($14); super-piquant, crusty, and flavor-intensive, it made us a convert-and we look forward to one of the other dozen pizzette ($13) sometime soon.
Only one main course is available per day. We were molti contenti that Monday’s is Meatballs in spicy Tomato Sauce ($11), three bodacious beef balls in a rich Marinara. Only a few slices of grilled ciabatta would have bettered this dish. (Diner’s alert: bread must be requested with most dishes, and then is gladly brought.
Desserts are important here. House-Made Gelati ($6) come in vanilla, espresso, or a mix (and with caramel sauce for a buck more). But the best bet: Rosemary ricotta cake with moscato-honey marinated figs ($8); the eggy, spongy texture is the perfect mate for the rosemary-scented cheese-and-fruit counterparts.
One caveat: the noise factor here is terrifically high- a fact that seemed lost on the spirited crowd enjoying the highly charged, gastromically gifted atmosphere that is Beretta’s stock in trade.
Beretta
1199 Valencia Street
San Francisco
415.695.1199
